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Cordoba’s Mezquita: Silvered Birch and Sunset Palms
I thought I would hate it.
Before I crossed the Roman-Andalusian bridge still
Spanning the river’s gurgling rush; the guitar’s
Flamenco soothing, reviving, weary feet
Before I passed the Courtyard of Oranges and entered –
The shadowed hall
Mirrored doubled striated palmed arches in red and gold
Rank on rank, columns receding into sunsetting eternity
Receding into eternal Arabic calligraphy
Curling pirouettes in decorated coves.
The Great Mosque of Cordoba,
Or The Mesquita as its known,
In its name an affectionate diminutive …
Yet still my finger can trace the Arabic masjid* on the wall.
Plonk a church inside a mosque … no that could never work
Some kind of garish violation – that’s what I thought
Cultural strangers – incompatibles – just victor’s contemptuous hubris …
That’s all.
But then I had not yet seen the other churches
In every marvellous Spanish city which we saw
Square, squat churches sitting dark and heavy
The inquisition’s calling card
Built with generous floods of conquistador’s gold and blood and bone
Beside the plaza: the auto da fe’s** broad stage …
The square’s the give away – wrong shape for a church
Unless you want to forget the mosque erased …
Sometimes, you don’t even have to do the work,
An earthquake, God’s antidote to human vanity, and it’s gone
A moorish tower might survive to tell the tale
Still standing beside the new fangled Renaissance church now there
The medieval barbarism of the past we’ve left behind
For the brave new world of science, reason and pure race.
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But in the Mezquita something happened that could never be
Church rising within the shadowed hall, soaring high above
It’s marbled nave, a choral chorus to the Mesquita’s verse
As church should, rising in impossible stone
Mighty inspired stone trunks, branches embracing above
Framed by windows and waterfalls of light.
Forest within forest
Silvered birch rising amidst the sunset palms
Here in harmony, chorus and verse
The mihrab still lights the way to Mecca
Beyond, and church windows still echo heaven’s call,
In Cordoba’s Mosque-Cathedral and in its celebrated halls.
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* masjid is the Arabic word for mosque, it is pronounced with a hard ‘g’ in Egyptian Arabic. Our English word may have been influenced by the Andalusian Arabic pronunciation (hard ‘g’ or ‘q’) which became the Spanish word mezquita.
** auto da fe is the Spanish term for the process of inquisition of ‘heretics’ which often ended in the person being burnt to death.
Images
Author’s work, June 2024, during visit to the Mezquita.
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